Of Compliments and Other Tales

The first days of my trip I spent recuperating, which essentially translated to doing little more than eating, sleeping, and reading. Oh, and (not surprisingly) going to the gym. Here’s a story: the very first day of my stay in town, I marched into the gym across the street and demanded a one-month contract. Little did I know that they already offer such an option and there was no need for hostility and pleading on my part! In any case, as I have been a regular ever since, the staff thinks of me as the strange American girl who workout on holiday. Before I go on with the story, I should point out that the gym is one single very large room sectioned off into groups of machines (in addition to two special rooms that are separate and intended for classes); so, the point is: everyone works out in, technically, the same room. However, unbeknownst to me, there was an area of the room that apparently only men usually work out in; in fact, after I realized this, I started noticing that I only ever saw one woman working out in that half of the gym. In any case, I, completely oblivious as always, marched on over there every day to do my weights. It is on two such occasions that I had two (very funny) run-ins. The first time, my exercise was interrupted by a man who said, “I really admire your spirit,” to which my prompt response was, “What?” obviously thinking that he was using some kind of dirty metaphor and I was not about to let a stranger talk to me like that! He then explained himself, adding, “Your spirit. Women don’t usually come to this side, but it is a shame because there are a lot of good machines. It is good that you are here.” How strange; I was confused. Who says things like that to complete strangers?

About a week and a half later, another man also interrupted my exercise routine with the following phrase, “You work hard, like a man. That is good. Welcome to our side of the gym.” No introduction, no formalities, no other words. Again, my question is what could possibly be so remarkable about a woman exercising that would posses you to speak to her about it!? I have to admit I was a bit flattered despite my confusion and I was happy to add this to the arsenal of random anecdotes, to be pulled out exclusively at cocktail parties and awkward first-dates.

In any case, on to other topics! In terms of transportation, this trip I take the mini-bus taxis that I was afraid to take last time, resorting mostly to private cabs if necessary. I am often the single white person in these buses, but they are efficient and cheap so I’ve elected to face a bit of scrutiny to have a more authentic living experience. I am living by the University of Cape Town area (called Rondebosh) which is a ride away from town…as a result, transportation is a key issue for me, and a new one since I walked to work every day last year (I lived in a hostel across the street).

Speaking of work, visiting the agency where I interned last summer has been heart-warming, and as a result, I go back almost daily. First, to be welcomed back with excitement and not just remembered as a passing intern has been a welcome surprise (it is always nice when people are as excited to see you as you are to see them, right?) and reconnecting with people whose company I truly enjoy has been priceless. I’ve gone to dinner several times with ex-co-workers, I’ve gone out (or rather, stayed in, as the agency has an in-house bar) to dance and catch-up. It has reminded me once again how much I really do feel at home in Cape Town’s relaxed energy, even though I am clearly a foreigner and have only been here once before. This city and the people who inhabit have an amazing spirit, amazing in part because they leave it so open for others to observe, feel, and join in.

I must remark that, oddly enough, I find myself eating a lot of burgers on this trip. I remember that I also did so last year. I’m not sure why I eat so many more burgers in South Africa of all places than in the proper (said in a snooty British accent) US but they’re delicious so don’t try to dissuade me by calling on my patriotism! That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

On a last note, I had the strange luck the other day of walking by what turned out to be a mass demonstration. The workers for the 2010 World Cup have been striking for several months now demanding higher wages and on this particular day, they had taken to the streets (in a very organized fashion, I should note) to announce so. I stood on the side of the street, huddling with two cab drivers under the umbrella they very generously shared with me (it was pouring) and watched the throngs of people who chanting by. Aside from whether or not I agree with their demands or not, the march was interesting because it was a testament to how much the imminent World Cup is affecting South African society and in some ways changing it. What a strange shared moment among the three of us.